You could argue that it is inconsiderate of me to share this recipe with those of you who don’t have access to this specialised ingredient. And yet, I also feel that I would somehow not be faithful to my roots if I excluded some staples of my diet when growing up on the island of Crete.
If you visit the island, ensure that you buy some xynochontros to take home. It thickens and adds flavour to most soups and casseroles.
My mother made the soup with water since we didn’t always have stock, but she used plenty of olive oil and added chunks of potato to make it more filling. As children, we would also add bites of bread, turning the soup into something almost solid.
This version is more refined—suited to the dining style of Northern Europe, where I now live. I get a kick from serving it to serious foodies and chefs and delight in them asking for seconds or doggie bags.
Ingredients (Serves 4 as a starter)
- 150g xynochontros (fermented cracked wheat with sour milk or yogurt – traditional in Crete)
- 10 small tomatoes (about 150g)
- 1.5 litres vegetable stock (or water with 2 stock cubes)
- 2 sprigs thyme
- 2 cloves garlic, unpeeled
- 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
- About 100g sourdough bread, cut into small cubes
- 25g dry anthotyro, grated (substitute with your favourite hard goats cheese)
- A few leaves of fresh thyme
- Sea salt flakes
- Freshly ground black pepper
Method
Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F).
Place the bread cubes in a small baking tray, season with salt and pepper, and drizzle with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Bake on the middle rack for a few minutes until golden and crisp. Transfer to a small bowl.
Rinse the tomatoes, cut them in half, and place in a small baking tray with the thyme and unpeeled garlic. Drizzle lightly with olive oil and sprinkle with a little salt. Roast in the oven for 15–20 minutes. Transfer the tomatoes to a plate.
Pour a small glass of hot water into the baking tray and scrape up any caramelised bits—this will capture all the flavour from the tomatoes. Set aside.
In a medium saucepan, add the vegetable stock (or water with stock cubes), 2 tablespoons olive oil, the roasted garlic (now peeled), the roasted tomatoes, and the tomato pan juices (strained if needed).
Bring to a boil, then stir in the xynochontros. Lower the heat slightly and cook for 25–30 minutes, until the soup thickens slightly.
Taste and adjust the salt before serving. Ladle into bowls and top with the crisped bread cubes, grated dry anthotyro, and a few fresh thyme leaves.