Italy Culinary and Heritage Retreat (Eastern Sicily)
Some places reveal themselves immediately. Others ask something more of us — time, attention, and the willingness to look beyond the obvious. Eastern Sicily belongs firmly in the second category.
This is a part of the island where volcanic landscapes, aristocratic towns, fertile countryside and ancient coastal cities exist side by side. A Sicily shaped not only by conquest and history, but by lava, altitude, agriculture and the sea.
Over the course of this week, we move from Catania to Mount Etna, through Taormina and Noto, and finally to Ortigia — not in order to “see” Eastern Sicily, but to experience it from within.
As always, this retreat has not been assembled from lists of attractions. It has been built through relationships, conversations, visits and time spent understanding where genuine experiences still exist.
There will be excellent food and wine throughout, but also something deeper: encounters with people who continue to live closely connected to the land, to tradition, and to the rhythms that still define life here.
A Sicily shaped by volcano, sea and abundance
There is an intensity to Eastern Sicily that feels very different from the west of the island. Mount Etna dominates everything — visually, agriculturally and culturally. The volcanic soil produces wines of extraordinary character, orchards of blood oranges, almonds, pistachios and vines that seem almost impossible in such dramatic terrain.
In September, the landscape is alive with activity. Harvesting season will likely be underway, particularly around Etna, and there is a feeling of movement and energy everywhere — tractors, workers, crates of grapes, wineries in full rhythm. Sicily at this time of year does not feel staged or quiet. It feels alive.
Throughout the week, we experience Sicily through this abundance. We cook in a noble palace in Catania after wandering through the city market with our local cook, gathering ingredients among fishmongers, fruit sellers and spice stalls.
We travel high onto Mount Etna itself in specialised off-road vehicles, crossing ancient craters and lava flows with volcanological guides who understand the mountain intimately.
We spend time in vineyards where volcanic minerals shape wines unlike those found elsewhere in Italy.
We are welcomed into private estates and family-run farms where almonds, honey, citrus and vegetables are still cultivated with knowledge passed quietly through generations.
And in Ortigia — perhaps one of the Mediterranean’s most beautiful small islands — we slow down enough to absorb its atmosphere properly.
A Sicily shaped by volcano, sea and abundance
There is an intensity to Eastern Sicily that feels very different from the west of the island. Mount Etna dominates everything — visually, agriculturally and culturally. The volcanic soil produces wines of extraordinary character, orchards of blood oranges, almonds, pistachios and vines that seem almost impossible in such dramatic terrain.
In September, the landscape is alive with activity. Harvesting season will likely be underway, particularly around Etna, and there is a feeling of movement and energy everywhere — tractors, workers, crates of grapes, wineries in full rhythm. Sicily at this time of year does not feel staged or quiet. It feels alive.
Throughout the week, we experience Sicily through this abundance. We cook in a noble palace in Catania after wandering through the city market with our local cook, gathering ingredients among fishmongers, fruit sellers and spice stalls.
We travel high onto Mount Etna itself in specialised off-road vehicles, crossing ancient craters and lava flows with volcanological guides who understand the mountain intimately.
We spend time in vineyards where volcanic minerals shape wines unlike those found elsewhere in Italy.
We are welcomed into private estates and family-run farms where almonds, honey, citrus and vegetables are still cultivated with knowledge passed quietly through generations.
And in Ortigia — perhaps one of the Mediterranean’s most beautiful small islands — we slow down enough to absorb its atmosphere properly.
A way of travelling that is increasingly difficult to find
This retreat is not about rushing between experiences. It is about access, pace, and depth. There is a difference between visiting somewhere and being properly received there. Throughout the week we are welcomed into places that are personal rather than commercial — private estates, working farms, vineyards and kitchens where what is shared has not been simplified for tourism.
Some experiences are elegant and refined. Others are deeply rustic. Both matter equally because together they create a more truthful understanding of Sicily.
There will be moments of beauty and comfort, certainly. But also moments of quietness: conversations over lunch, the scent of citrus groves in late September, the sound of bees in the countryside outside Siracusa, volcanic dust underfoot on Etna. These are often the moments that remain longest in the memory.
Food, wine and Sicily understood from within
Food in Eastern Sicily reflects both landscape and history.
In Catania, mountain and sea meet dramatically on the plate. Sweet and savoury flavours exist side by side in ways that feel distinctly Sicilian.
Our week begins with a market visit and private cooking class inside a noble palace, where we prepare dishes rooted in the city’s traditions before sharing them together around the table with wine and conversation.
On Mount Etna we stay at Dimora Cottanera, surrounded by vineyards and volcanic landscapes. On our first evening there, we will gather for a relaxed pizza evening, with pizzas prepared by the estate’s dedicated chef and accompanied by some of the winery’s own wines.
The following evening, after our Etna exploration and wine tasting, we will enjoy a more refined four-course dinner paired with selected vintage wines from the estate.
Weather permitting, guests will also be able to enjoy the infinity pool overlooking the vineyards and volcanic landscape — a place that feels particularly atmospheric during harvest season, when the winery is likely to be buzzing with activity.
Near Taormina, we are welcomed into a remarkable private garden estate where Mediterranean planting, orchards, water systems and Sicilian rural traditions come together in extraordinary harmony. Lunch here is not restaurant dining, but something far more personal — a meal prepared by the owners using ingredients from the estate itself.
On the evening of 24th September, we will dine at the Michelin-starred Cortile Spirito Santo in Ortigia, where Sicilian ingredients and traditions are interpreted with precision and restraint in one of the island’s most respected contemporary kitchens.
In Noto, after exploring the extraordinary Baroque architecture of the town, we visit an almond farm cultivating the prized Romana almond. Here, surrounded by orchards, we enjoy a generous family lunch prepared using the farm’s own produce.
Later in the week, we experience another side of Sicily through honey — a product deeply rooted in the history of the Hyblaean region since antiquity. At a family-run honey farm near Siracusa, we learn about beekeeping traditions, taste local honeys and share a simple farm lunch prepared with ingredients gathered directly from the land.
Our final full day brings us back towards Catania through citrus country, where blood oranges and traditional Sicilian amari are produced. Among fragrant groves, we enjoy a final brunch before returning to the city.
And on our last evening together, the chef at Habitat Boutique Hotel will prepare a special dinner exclusively for our group — a final opportunity to gather around the table and reflect on the week shared together.
Ortigia — time to experience Sicily for yourself
Part of the beauty of staying several nights in Ortigia is having time simply to be there. This small island, connected to Siracusa by bridges, changes character constantly through the day.
Early mornings belong to the market sellers unloading fish and vegetables near the sea. Afternoons invite wandering through narrow limestone streets lined with small galleries, courtyards, churches and artisan shops. In the evenings, the waterfront fills slowly with people walking, talking and lingering over aperitivi as the light softens across the harbour.
Guests may wish to explore the ancient Jewish quarter, sit beside the sea near Castello Maniace, browse small food and ceramics shops, enjoy granita or pastries in hidden cafés, or simply watch life unfold from one of Ortigia’s piazzas. This is one of the rare places where doing very little still feels deeply rewarding.
Where we will stay
Habitat Boutique Hotel, Catania
We begin and end our week at Habitat Boutique Hotel in Catania — a calm and elegant hotel hidden behind a discreet façade in the heart of the city.
Contemporary in style yet deeply connected to Sicilian materials and design, Habitat offers a quieter side of Catania. The atmosphere is refined without feeling formal, and its central location allows you to step easily into the life of the city.
Our final evening dinner will take place here, prepared especially for our group by the hotel’s chef.
Dimora Cottanera, Mount Etna
For two nights we stay at Dimora Cottanera, a wine estate on the slopes of Mount Etna surrounded by vineyards and volcanic scenery.
This is one of the most atmospheric parts of the retreat. The contrast between black volcanic soil, vines, mountain air and distant sea views creates a landscape unlike anywhere else in Europe.
The property combines contemporary comfort with the quiet rhythm of a working winery. September is harvest time, and depending on the season, guests may witness elements of the grape harvest and winery activity during their stay.
The infinity pool overlooking the vineyards adds another dimension entirely to the experience.
Algilà Ortigia Charme Hotel
For three nights we stay at Algilà in Ortigia, directly facing the sea. Set within restored historic buildings, the hotel combines Sicilian character with understated elegance. Many rooms retain original architectural details, while the atmosphere throughout feels intimate and deeply connected to Ortigia itself.
Step outside and the island immediately unfolds around you — the waterfront, small streets, cafés, markets and piazzas all within easy walking distance.
This allows Ortigia to be experienced naturally and slowly, rather than as somewhere simply visited.
The shape of the week
The week has been designed carefully to balance activity with ease. Some experiences are highly curated and private. Others allow space for spontaneity and personal exploration.
As always, meals are not simply stops within the itinerary. They are part of the understanding of place. And throughout the retreat, there is continuity — each experience connecting naturally to the next until Eastern Sicily begins to reveal itself not as separate destinations, but as a complete and layered whole.
The group
The group remains intentionally small. This allows access to places and experiences that larger groups simply could not accommodate, but it also creates a different atmosphere entirely.
What develops over the course of the week is not forced sociability, but something more natural: shared curiosity, ease, conversation and the quiet pleasure of travelling with people who value similar things.
What is included
Seven nights’ accommodation with breakfast
Transfers in Sicily
Carefully selected meals, tastings and culinary experiences
Private cooking class in Catania
Wine experiences on Mount Etna
Private estate visits
Honey and almond farm experiences
Transport throughout the retreat
Guided visits and entrance fees where applicable
Hosting throughout
Gratuities
What you arrange separately
Flights
Travel insurance
Personal purchases
Additional drinks outside arranged tastings and meals
One evening meal for you to enjoy at your leisure in Ortigia
Required Investment
£3,850 per person for shared accommodation in a double ensuite.
A 25% deposit secures your place, with the balance payable 8 weeks before arrival.
This retreat, like all my others, is intentionally limited to a group no larger than 14 guests, allowing for a calm, personal and well-held experience throughout the week.
If you would like further details, or to discuss whether this retreat is right for you, please email irini@irinicooks.com. I am always happy to answer questions before you decide.
