Italy Culinary and Heritage Retreat (Western Sicily)
There are places we visit. And a few that stay with us for the rest of our lives.
Sicily is one of those places — but only when it is experienced in the right way. This is not a journey designed to show you Sicily but one that allows you to enter it.
For years, Sicily lived in my imagination — through its history, its layered influences and, more recently, through its food. But understanding it required something else entirely: time, access and the right people.
This trip that I hope to share with you has been built slowly, through that process. Not from recommendations or research alone, but from being welcomed into kitchens, homes and conversations that are rarely available to the passing visitor.
Over the course of the week, we move through Palermo, Marsala, Erice and the western coast before returning to Palermo.
Travelling through Sicily in spring means landscapes at their most vibrant. Wildflowers carpet the countryside, vineyards and olive groves are coming to life, and the light seems to invite you to slow down and look more closely.
There will be time to pause at viewpoints, to take photographs, to wander through beautiful places, to sit over a coffee, and to share stories with fellow travellers. Conversations continue on coach journeys, around tables and during walks through towns and villages.
This is not a rushed itinerary. It is a week of discovery, connection and shared experiences, allowing you to experience Sicily not only through its food, history and culture, but through the pleasure of being fully present in a remarkable place.
A way of travelling that is increasingly rare
This is not a collection of experiences. It is a way of travelling that has become increasingly difficult to access.
Every element of this week has been chosen with care — not for how it looks, but for what it reveals. Where you are received rather than expected. Where what is shared is not adapted, simplified, or performed.
We will be welcomed into private spaces, spend time with people whose knowledge is lived rather than presented, and experience aspects of Sicilian life that continue quietly, without audience.
These moments are not dramatic. They are something far more valuable. They are real, and they are not easily arranged. As time becomes more precious, so too does the way we choose to spend it. This retreat is designed for those who understand that.
You will arrive in Palermo on 20 April 2027, where you will be met at the airport and transferred to our hotel in the historic heart of the city.
As guests will be arriving on different flights throughout the day, the first evening is intentionally informal. Depending on your arrival time, there may be an opportunity to meet some of your fellow travellers over a welcome drink. Otherwise, we will gather the following morning at breakfast when our retreat officially begins.
This relaxed arrival day gives you the chance to settle into your surroundings and perhaps enjoy your first taste of Palermo at your own pace.
Palermo is a city unlike any other in Italy — a fascinating blend of Arab, Norman, Spanish and Sicilian influences that reveal themselves in its architecture, food, markets and daily life.
Step outside the hotel and you find yourself surrounded by elegant piazzas, bustling cafés, artisan gelaterias, wine bars and some of the city’s most celebrated food streets. Whether you choose to enjoy a leisurely dinner nearby, wander through the atmospheric streets or simply watch the world go by with an aperitivo, Palermo offers a memorable introduction to Sicily.
Our retreat will come full circle here at the end of the week, when we return to Palermo for a special farewell aperitivo on the terrace of the magnificent Villa Igiea, the iconic Rocco Forte hotel overlooking the sea.
Food, culture and place — understood from within
Sicilian food is not simply regional cooking. It is a record of everything the island has absorbed and held onto.
Throughout the week, we experience this not through explanation, but through direct encounter.
In Palermo, we move beyond the surface of the city. Time spent in places such as Stanze al Genio and the Convent of St Catherine reveals a quieter, more considered Sicily — one shaped by craftsmanship, restraint and continuity. We step inside long-established workshops and private studios, including a jeweller whose work draws directly from the architectural language of the island.
In the countryside, we spend time on a working farm where one of Sicily’s iconic cheeses is still made with judgement rather than formula. What you will witness here is not production, but skill — and a way of thinking that has not been hurried or replaced. The meal that follows is simple, but it will stay with you.
In Erice, we are received into a private home overlooking the Trapani coastline. Cooking here is instinctive and personal — including couscous prepared in the local way, a dish that speaks quietly of Sicily’s long relationship with North Africa.
In Marsala, we walk the salt pans — where the landscape itself still dictates the rhythm of work. We then approach Marsala wine as it should be approached: with time, with context, and with an understanding that transforms it entirely.
At Selinunte, Sicily’s Greek past is not explained — it is felt. And once again, everything returns to the table.
On our final full day, Palermo reveals itself in a different way — through its markets, alive with movement and decision. With Michael, a chef whose roots span Ireland and Sicily, we will select ingredients before returning to his school. Here, you will cook the food of Palermo as it is meant to be cooked — directly, generously, without compromise.
Our final evening is spent at the Villa Igiea, on a terrace overlooking the bay. There is no formal ending — just an aperitivo that becomes dinner, and a moment to recognise what has been shared.
Each part of the week connects to the next, not as contrast, but as continuation.
Where we will stay
Where we stay is part of the experience — not separate from it.
In Palermo, we are based in the historic centre, within immediate reach of the city’s architectural and cultural heart. This allows Sicily to be encountered naturally — early in the morning, late in the evening, and in the moments in between.
In Marsala, we stay within a restored historic residence in the centre of the town. Intimate in scale and quietly refined, it offers a sense of belonging rather than observation. From the rooftop, the town unfolds around you — not as a view, but as a presence.
Rooms in both locations vary and are allocated in order of booking.
The group
The group is intentionally small. Not simply for comfort, but because it allows access, flexibility, and a different quality of experience.
Many guests arrive alone. What emerges over the week is something more considered than companionship — a sense of ease, of being understood, and of sharing something that cannot be replicated outside this setting.
What is included
Seven nights’ accommodation
Most meals, tastings and carefully arranged experiences
Transport throughout
Private access, guided visits and entrance fees
Cooking and food experiences
Hosting throughout
Gratuities
What is not included
Flights
Travel insurance (essential)
Personal purchases
Two dinners during the retreat, allowing you the opportunity to explore Palermo and Marsala’s restaurants at your own pace
Drinks, unless specifically stated as included or part of the experience
Retreat Cost
£3,850 for sole occupancy
£3,250 for shared accommodation
A 25% deposit secures your place, with the balance payable 8 weeks before arrival.
A monthly instalment option is also available.
Before confirming your place
Places are confirmed personally, to ensure this is the right fit — for you, and for the group.
Registration will close at the end of June 2026
This retreat is limited to a group of 14 guests, allowing for a calm, personal and well-held experience throughout the week.
If you would like further details, or to discuss whether this retreat is right for you, please email irini@irinicooks.com. I am always happy to answer questions before you decide.
























